Ribalta nazionale per il tradizionale ed unico dolce della tradizione tifernate, tipico di carnevale da secoli ma ottimo in tutte le stagioni, Se ne è occupato “Mag”, nell’edizione di ieri sera alle 18,30, dopo il Tg di Studio Aperto a Italia Uno sulle reti Mediaset con un servizio. La presentazione nella “sala del gusto” del Centro di Formazione Asp “G.O. Bufalini”
I “crostini briachi” in Tv: ribalta nazionale per il tradizionale ed unico dolce della tradizione tifernate, tipico di carnevale da secoli ma ottimo in tutte le stagioni, Se ne è occupato “Mag”, nell’edizione di ieri sera alle 18,30, dopo il Tg di Studio Aperto a Italia Uno sulle reti Mediaset con un dettagliato ed interessante servizio. La presentazione nella “sala del gusto” del Centro di Formazione Asp “G.O. Bufalini” di Città di Castello. I crostini ubriachi, “briachi” nel dialetto locale, simbolo di questa zona a nord dell’Umbria al confine con Toscana e Marche, sono spesso abbinati a tavola al termine di un pranzo o cena, ma soprattutto dolce indiscusso del carnevale e della Pasqua, ma ottimo tutto l’anno. La maestra “chef”, Sandra Gaggioli, cuoca ed esperta di cucina popolare, custode di mille ricette, ha preparato i crostini e raccontato la storia di questo straordinario ed unico dolce della tradizione. Dolce tipico dei quartieri popolari di Città di Castello diffuso anche in altri luoghi dell’Alto Tevere Umbro, che nasce negli anni a cavallo tra il cinquanta e sessanta del secolo trascorso. Nel Teatro Comunale di Città di Castello, “Teatro degli Illuminati”, si svolgevano durante il Carnevale i “Vejoni” ( feste danzanti molto popolari ). I primi veglioni erano due : quello dei tipografi organizzato dalle associazioni operaie e molto popolare, e quello Tricolore, più aristocratico ed organizzato dall’Associazione Commercianti cittadina. A questi due seguirono ,ma solo dopo alcune edizioni, quelli dei Rioni San Giacomo, Prato, Mattonata, Rignaldello, della “Cambiale”, che sostituì quello Tricolore. Nei veglioni popolari era uso che gruppi familiari o di conoscenti prendessero in affitto un palco del teatro come base logistica per i successivi balli. Dopo la mezzanotte i balli si interrompevano momentaneamente per permettere agli intervenuti di cenare. La cena veniva portata dall’esterno, e alcuni membri della compagnia o delle famiglie si recavano rapidamente a casa per prendere le libagioni già pronte per il consumo. Addirittura si preparavano primi a base di tagliatelle, ravioli, cappelletti. La cena consisteva in molte portate, dolci compresi. A causa delle ristrettezze economiche e la penuria di ingredienti ,tipica del dopoguerra, che vennero inventati o forse rivalorizzati i crostini “briachi” che a quel punto non potevano più mancare nel menù, anzi divennero un vero e proprio “ status symbol” che caratterizzava i vari gruppi. La ricetta originale, che fa il paio con numerose variazioni era questa: pane sciapo umbro abbastanza raffermo e tagliato in formato crostini inzuppato in una miscela di alchermes ed un liquore a base di rum. Importante che il crostino inzuppato ,se morsicato, non riveli nessuna sua parte non imbevuta e quindi colorata dal liquido descritto, dovevano cioè essere senza anima bianca, ”briaco” appunto. Sopra il crostino, così imbevuto, si pone uno strato composto da cioccolato in polvere disciolto con aggiunta di rum e successivamente impastato con granella di mandorle tostate e sbriciolate grossolanamente. Come detto, questo dolce tipico è esclusivamente di produzione familiare (non ci risulta essere prodotto in alcuna pasticceria o ristorante locale) e oggi viene prodotto in mille varianti da ritenersi lecite ma “ spurie” .E’ prodotto esclusivamente nella alta valle del tevere. Questo originale dolce è stato proposto come prodotto/preparazione da salvare e tramandare. La sommelier, Tiziana Croci, delegato di zona Ais (Associazione Italiana Sommelier) poi ha illustrato l’abbinamento dei crostini “briachi” con la Visciola e il Visciolato, vino di colore rosso scuro a forma tondeggiante, che per i più romantici ricorda un cuore. Succosa e acida, a maturità pare tinga di sangue. Da sempre diffusa nelle aree territoriali pedemontane di Marche ed Umbria, non ha mai goduto di impianti razionali e non ha mai rappresentato un’entrata sostanziale per i contadini che, tuttavia, non hanno mai smesso di raccogliere i frutti e lavorarli per dare vita a preziose conserve e golose bevande. A Pietralunga, ridente comune dell’altotevere umbro ci si può imbattere in piccole produzioni familiari che sopravvivono grazie alla capacità degli ostinati abitanti. Le visciole locali, raccolte a piena maturità intorno alla fine di giugno, sono delicatamente schiacciate e aggiunte al vino prodotto con le uve dei piccoli vigneti di famigliari. Dopo aver eliminato i noccioli dalla massa e aver aggiunto alcol e sciroppo di zucchero, il composto matura per 45 giorni prima di venire filtrato con un canovaccio fatto al telaio e messo in bottiglia. Il visciolato oggi è un vino liquoroso, con un sapore profumato e complesso, adatto ad accompagnare il fine pasto, perfetto con i crostini “briachi”. Brindisi finale con il Presidente del Centro di Formazione Asp “G.O. Bufalini”, Giovanni Granci. “Una bella vetrina per il nostro territorio, che accanto al re della tavola, il tartufo bianco annovera prelibatezze come i crostini “briachi”, dolce tipico di Città di Castello che da generazioni si prepara con maestria solo qui. Grazie alle nostre due brave divulgatrici e appassionate protagoniste delle tradizioni locali, Sandra e Tiziana, abbiamo potuto offrire un’altra bella immagine della nostra vallata ricca di eccellenze eno-agro-alimentari”, ha dichiarato l’assessore al Turismo e Commercio, Letizia Guerri.
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