MILANO – La via alpinistica completata dal CAI Eagle Team in Patagonia ha uno sviluppo totale di 27 tiri, con difficoltà massima di 7a/A2 Dario Eynard (bergamasco classe 2000), il tutor Matteo Della Bordella e Mirco Grasso (alpinista veneziano classe ’93 che si è unito al CAI Eagle Team durante la spedizione) hanno raggiunto la vetta del Cerro Piergiorgio (2719 m, gruppo del Fitz Roy), completando la via “Gringos Locos”, che Maurizio Giordani e Luca Maspes tentarono nel 1995 sul versante nord-ovest della montagna.
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“Gringos Locos”La via ha uno sviluppo totale di 27 tiri, con difficoltà massima di 7a/A2. Nei tratti più difficili, i tre hanno alternato passaggi in libera a tratti in artificiale mediante skyhook. Negli ultimi cinque tiri la via si ricongiunge alla “Via dell’Hermano” dei Ragni di Lecco, aperta nel 2008 da Hervè Barmasse e Christian Brenna.La cordata è arrivata in vetta alle 3 del mattino di venerdì 28 febbraio, per poi scendere immediatamente, evitando così l’arrivo del maltempo. «Siamo veramente al settimo cielo per questa nuova via, una delle più belle e difficili che io abbia mai fatto, unica nel suo genere: affronta una parete verticale, senza evidenti fessure che indicano una linea naturale, e la risale con uno stile pulito», afferma Matteo Della Bordella. «Non poteva esserci miglior conclusione del progetto CAI Eagle Team: abbiamo realizzato una spedizione complessa, che ha messo alla prova tutti i partecipanti nel loro battesimo con le montagne più belle al mondo». L’apertura di “Gringos Locos” è stata accolta con grande soddisfazione da Antonio Montani, Presidente generale del Club alpino italiano: «sono orgoglioso del fatto che il Cai sia riuscito a riproporre un alpinismo di alto livello partendo dal coinvolgimento dei giovani alpinisti, ragazzi e ragazze che hanno dimostrato non soltanto doti tecniche, ma quello spirito di aggregazione che permea da oltre un secolo e mezzo il nostro sodalizio».Anche Maurizio Giordani, arrivato in Patagonia per seguire la salita, si è complimentato con i ragazzi: «questo risultato è la perfetta conclusione di un progetto storico, che rimane nei miei ricordi come un’avventura irripetibile». Reggio e Meliffi aprono la variante “Jineteada” sulla Aguja Medialuna
Camilla Reggio (torinese classe 1996) e Giacomo Meliffi (originario di Urbania, in provincia di Pesaro, classe 1996) hanno invece aperto sulla Aguja Medialuna (massiccio del Cerro Torre) “Jineteada” una variante di 200 metri della “Rubio y Azul”. La nuova via, composta da cinque tiri con difficoltà massima 7a, parte sullo strapiombo del versante sud-est della Aguja de la Medialuna, per poi girare lo spigolo e ricongiungersi alla Rubio y Azul.Per Reggio e Meliffi “Jineteada” consente «un’arrampicata tutta in fessura, pulita, piena di incastri bellissimi su tutti i tiri». Le altre cordateMarco Cordin (trentino classe 1999), Alessandra Prato (milanese classe 1995) e il tutor Massimo Faletti sono stati colpiti da una violenta influenza intestinale ai piedi delle pareti e hanno dovuto rinunciare alle salite.L’ultima cordata, composta da Luca Ducoli (originario di Breno, in provincia di Brescia, classe 2001) e dalla tutor Silvia Loreggian, che stava tentando la vetta del Cerro Torre per la Via dei Ragni giovedì scorso, si è dovuta calare senza raggiungere la vetta a causa della presenza di ben dieci cordate, un numero davvero elevato.A metà febbraio Ducoli e Loreggian avevano raggiunto la vetta dell’Aguja Poincenot (3002 m), dapprima tentando la salita della via Potter-Davis sulla parete nord, per poi ripiegare sulla Whillans-Cochrane (una via classica per la vetta) a causa delle avverse condizioni meteorologiche. I componenti della spedizione rientreranno in Italia nel pomeriggio di oggi, lunedì 3 marzo.
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