APERTE 11 NUOVE VIE E STORICHE RIPETIZIONI DI VACANZE R(OMANE) E LA MITICA FRENCH PILLAR L’avventura è stata coordinata dal Club alpino accademico italiano e finanziata dal Club alpino italiano Undici nuove vie e alcune ripetizioni storiche. Il bottino della spedizione in Oman del gruppo composto dai sei componenti del CAI Eagle Team Erica Bonalda, Marco Cocito, Daniele Lo Russo, Matteo Monfrini, Lorenzo Toscani e Riccardo Volpiano.
L’avventura è stata coordinata dal Club alpino accademico italiano e finanziata dal Club alpino italiano. Insieme a loro, tre tutor del Caai, Marco Ghisio, Mauro Florit e Francesco Leardi. “La spedizione, nonostante qualche piccolo intoppo iniziale, è stata di successo, abbiamo centrato tutti gli obiettivi che ci eravamo dati pre-partenza. In particolare abbiamo aperto molte vie nuove sia su pareti note che su pareti vergini e tutti i partecipanti hanno avuto l’occasione di cimentarsi in questa attività, nuova per diversi di loro. A questo si aggiunge l’importante ripetizione di vacanze romane e la salita del french pillar allo Jebel Misht, montagna simbolo”, ha dichiarato Marco Ghisio. Le nuove vie Il vero exploit della spedizione è rappresentato dal numero di vie aperte, ben 11. Ciascuno dei sei giovani alpinisti del gruppo Cai Eagle Team ha potuto apporre la propria firma su almeno una nuova linea e l’impegno che tutti hanno profuso è stato fondamentale per rafforzare i legami all’interno del gruppo. Dopo le prime aperture tra le torri di Al Hamra, dove è stato necessario districarsi tra le linee già esistenti, si sono aperte nuove possibilità su pareti inesplorate come al Wadi Misfat’s Falaj dove sono nate la via “Habibi” (Mauro Florit – Francesco Leardi), la via “Sciugomano” (Matteo Monfrini – Lorenzo Toscani – Marco Cocito), che ha necessitato di un secondo giro nei giorni successivi per liberare l‘ultimo ostico tiro poi valutato 7c+. Riccardo Volpiano ed Erica Bonalda, quest’ultima alla sua prima esperienza di apertura, hanno invece tracciato la via “Feel free to create”. In alcuni punti poi, la roccia ha richiesto di essere bonificata e, tra una martellata e l’altra, si sono rotte le prese fragili e consolidate quelle fondamentali. In particolare, l’area dello Jebel Kawr e quella del vicino Wadi Damm sono diventate un importante terreno di sperimentazione e test delle capacità del team. Sul primo da menzionare le aperture di “Dreaming the tower”, una via di stampo classico sul Said Wall realizzata da Volpiano e Florit e di “Drips of Joy” per opera di Ghisio, Monfrini e Volpiano che, con i suoi 500m di lunghezza e difficoltà fino al 7b, ha costretto la cordata ad un bivacco in parete. In seguito, i tre alpinisti sono riusciti a completare la via su una porzione di parete del tutto inesplorata e contraddistinta da una grande pilastro sommitale. Durante una giornata di riposo sopra al Wadi Damm, il team ha scoperto la parete del Jabel Al-Wal che nei giorni successivi ha regalato “Patatonia” (Toscani-Cocito-Florit -Leardi) e “Dattero d’oro” (Ghisio-Florit). La spedizione si è conclusa al Wadi Nakhar dove, all’ultimo giorno disponibile, sono state aperte altre tre nuove linee. “Il percorso dei sei ragazzi, fino al momento in cui siamo saliti sull’aereo per l’ Oman, era, bene o male, una continua sfida per risultare i migliori. Riuscire a cambiare radicalmente registro e diventare un gruppo affiatato che condivideva i medesimi obiettivi, è stata la sfida più impegnativa. Una sfida che hanno saputo accettare e vincere”, ha spiegato Mauro Florit. Le ripetizioni: Vacanze R(omane) e la mitica French Pillar
La scelta dell’Oman come meta per la spedizione si è rivelata adeguata alle aspettative e ha saputo fornire il giusto terreno di gioco offrendo ampie possibilità esplorative, aspetto fondamentale per la crescita e formazione del team. Con queste premesse è stato possibile poter mettere a segno importanti ripetizioni, come quella della via “Vacanze R(omane)” sul Jabel Kawr, tra le vie più difficili del Paese, aperta per la prima volta da Matteo della Bordella, Simone Pedeferri, Stefano Caligiore e Arianna Colliard. La ripetizione è stata realizzata da Ghisio, Monfrini e Toscani. “Avevamo adocchiato questa via prima di partire, credendo di realizzare la prima ripetizione, ma il giorno prima della salita abbiamo incrociato una cordata. In ogni caso siamo felicissimi di essere riusciti a ripeterla“, afferma Toscani. La French Pillar sul Jebel Misht, nonostante sia di grado più semplice rispetto a “Vacanze R(omane)”, con la sua lunghezza di 1000 m, ha rappresentato un vero banco di prova, considerando anche l’esposizione in pieno sole. “In questa avventura abbiamo incontrato persone che vivono con assoluta dignità, con un credo religioso profondo e una cultura radicata. Ripenso ai datteri che ci hanno offerto nell’oasi di Al Kumaira, un gesto compiuto con estrema delicatezza ma anche risolutezza. Il segnale era: “Ti accolgo e rispetto ma ricorda che sei nella mia casa!”. Tutti noi ricorderemo con piacere la disponibilità del popolo omanita, che in ogni occasione e senza tornaconto ci ha accolto. Dal nulla più totale, tra quelle eterne sterrate polverose, compariva ogni tanto una jeep di omaniti che si fermava per chiedere se avessimo bisogno. Un gesto semplice ma significativo ed emozionante, come era il momento del saluto, quando si portavano una mano al cuore e poi te la porgevano. Una semplice mano che racchiude enormi significati!” ha commentato il tutor Francesco Leardi. Questo il commento finale del Presidente del Caai Mauro Penasa: “La spedizione in Oman chiude il ciclo attuale di CAI Eagle Team. È quindi tempo di metterci al lavoro per organizzare una nuova tornata del progetto. Credo che si farà tesoro dell’esperienza omanita. Prevedere destinazioni alternative per dare a tutti i partecipanti ad Eagle Team la possibilità di vivere un’avventura lontano dalle Alpi potrebbe infatti rivelarsi una scelta azzeccata”. Lo sviluppo del turismo outdoor in Oman
Il Sultanato dell’Oman è stato scelto come destinazione per la spedizione del CAI Eagle Team in quanto parte di un più ampio dialogo con il Ministero della Cultura, dello Sport e della Gioventù del Paese. Come illustrato durante la scorsa Assemblea dei Delegati, il Club Alpino Italiano è stato selezionato per contribuire allo sviluppo del turismo outdoor in Oman, attraverso iniziative quali attività di formazione, il potenziamento della rete sentieristica esistente e altre azioni mirate.
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